From Nairobi to Hargeisa: Inside Somaliland’s Independence Day celebrations

I didn’t wake up last Monday morning thinking I’d end the week speaking Somali, sweating through my shirt in desert heat, or learning that Ksh.100 could buy me three cups of tea and a temporary sense of financial superiority. But fate - and a 3am flight that I wasn’t mentally or emotionally prepared for - had other plans. What began as an ordinary work week turned into a diplomatic detour, a cultural masterclass, and a very dusty passport stamp. Here’s how I found myself in Somaliland.

Sometime mid last week, I was informed by the powers that be that I was being sent off to Somaliland for a 5-day work assignment. They said my 12-hour flight from the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) in Nairobi to Hargeisa, the Somaliland capital, was set for Friday; but what they conveniently left out was that the flight would be departing at 3am - the hour that the top one per centers usually wake up and then brag about on their LinkedIn pages to make the rest of us lazy folk feel bad about ourselves.

From the JKIA security checks to the waiting period, we finally boarded an Ethiopian Airlines flight at 2:30am, took off at 3am, and touched down at the Addis Ababa Bole International Airport at 5am. After a very strenuous four-hour layover, we then boarded a connecting flight to Hargeisa, landing just before noon.

Minutes after stepping out of the plane, I very hastily came to the realization that the scorching heat in Somaliland was no child’s play. But as I also quickly discovered, the warmth of the sun was equally matched by the people's camaraderie.

We were treated to a VIP motorcade from Hargeisa International Airport to the hotel where we were put up, and along the way, I couldn't help but notice that vehicles drove on the right and overtook on the left; the stark opposite of my country, Kenya.

Throughout the streets, the citizens were draped in the flag colours in anticipation of the D-Day.

We had arrived two days ahead of Somaliland's Independence Day celebrations, a monumental occasion that marks their declaration of independence from Somalia on May 18, 1991.

One notable thing about the Somaliland culture is how they strictly observe time. By 6am that Sunday, we were already heading to the country’s capital, where the celebrations were set to be held, with several security vehicles patrolling the city in a bid to ensure that no mad man attempted to throw a shoe at the Head of State.

Someone whispered to me that Somaliland spends 60 per cent of its budget on security, and specifically on securing its borders from any existential threat.

By 8am, the dignitaries had arrived at the dais, among them President Abdirahman Mohamed Irro, and his predecessor Muse Bihi Abdi.

The celebrations began with a band that played a harmonious tune that rekindled the citizens' passion for their country.

Then came the parades - a showcase of what Somaliland has to offer. From university students, athletes, to martial arts and daredevil stunts, the celebrations had it all.

In a hilarious moment, one of the students attempted to approach the President but was whisked away by the security who nudged him back to the parade - a light-hearted moment that excited the audience.

Next came the military parade that showed the country's prowess in defending its borders. The show lasted for over 45 minutes, with officers in different regalia marching to the band's beat as the emcee extolled their might. Also on full display were police vehicles, ambulances, horses, and army tanks.

Perhaps, what caught my attention the most was the all-women military unit, dressed to the nines and armed to the teeth with guns and marching with sheer determination.

As for the speeches, I expected a lineup of dignitaries taking turns at the podium, as is the norm in Kenya. To my utter shock, it was only the President who delivered the sole speech of the day, which lasted a measly 16 minutes.

After having conversations with a few officials from the Ministries of Foreign Affairs and Information, I realised that Somaliland is significantly hampered as it remains unrecognised by the international community.

The lack of recognition has hindered the country's ability to advance economically and attract foreign investment. However, the region continues to push for the acknowledgment, with President Irro making it a central pillar of his agenda.

We ventured into the market in Hargeisa to see the foreign exchange culture firsthand. Despite having read about it and watched videos online, seeing it in person was nothing short of amazing.

Stacks of foreign currencies were openly displayed on tables and when it came time to go to the mosques, the money was left unattended. This spoke volumes about the trust and culture ingrained in the citizens.

Not one to pass on an opportunity, I exchanged Ksh.100 and received 6,000 Somaliland shillings. This meant that Ksh.1,000 equals 60,000 Somaliland notes. Asking the vendor what I could purchase with the 6,000 Somaliland shillings, he said three cups of tea - something that the locals are fond of despite the intense heat.

On Monday, we set out on a 158-kilometre journey from Hargeisa to Berbera Port, the country's commercial hub that serves as an entry point for goods.

Somaliland is a major exporter of livestock and its byproducts to Gulf countries such as Saudi Arabia. In turn, the country heavily relies on imports of food, manufactured products and fuel.

A brief interview with the Berbera port manager Eng. Saeed Hasan Abdilahi shed light on the port's expansion plans that will play a pivotal role in facilitating trade and economic growth.

The trip to Somaliland was one for the books; a warm welcome from both the locals and the sun as well as an unwavering national pride and entrepreneurial spirit.

As I embark on another 12-hour journey back home, let me teach you the only Somali word I got to learn; ‘Warabe’ - which means hyena.